Hermès Autumn-Winter 2020 Runway Review: The Beauty of Utility

Upon witnessing Hermès' latest women's runway presentation for Autumn-Winter 2020, the immediate impression was one of crisp lines and vibrant color blocks set against a backdrop that shifted from white to black, tan, and beige. Models navigated a forest of white striped horse-jumping posts, a nod to the maison's equestrian heritage, echoed throughout the collection in stripes, buckles, and padded details. The palette remained neutral, punctuated by bold shirts, stripes, bags, or even belts at the waist or neck to draw the eye. As always, the materials and cuts exuded luxury, yet every look carried an underlying practicality, a wearability. For those needing the point reinforced, Hermès' Ready-To-Wear designer Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski articulated the collection's ethos in her show notes: “What is beautiful must be useful.”

To say the clothing was beautiful regardless of its utility would be an understatement. The notion of what is genuinely useful, or even necessary, in these uncertain times is fluid at best (though the show took place merely two weeks ago, it already feels like a different era, especially given that the designs and preparations predate current events). Is a white leather coat priced in the tens of thousands genuinely useful? I won't question that, as it wouldn't be for me, regardless of market or season. Runway always contains an element of fantasy, presenting a perfect moment unattainable in the real world (though we may aspire to it in dreams; in reality, I am Carrie Bradshaw getting splashed by a bus). So let's embrace Vanhee-Cybulski's concept of useful—understood in the fashion monolith's terms, because reviewing runway is about execution and the inherent value of a garment as it is meant to be, not its price tag.

In Sarah Mower's Vogue review, she discussed how the show intertwined minimalism with the tastes of the moneyed class. Honestly, you could review every Ralph Lauren show with that sentence. While I agreed with much of what Mower said, it seemed more a counter-argument to those who found the show boring—a sentiment I've heard echoed even on Purse Forum. The Vogue review noted that this season's RTW “doesn’t have to pretend to be something that it isn’t,” “doesn’t need over explanation to prove [its] worth,” and “stripping away the superficial to get to the functional.” In essence, we now know what the show was NOT, but that implies simplicity and usefulness need explanation. Must fashion always be visually stimulating to be exciting, to have value, to earn its place in our fantasies and on our Instagram stories?

Is it enough to be useful, genuinely pretty, and uniquely executed? I argue yes. We may own fun, fantasy pieces, but we mostly wear functional items that are pretty and make us feel good (comfort is a bonus). The balance of simplicity (within reason) and uniqueness is paramount for consumers. Well-made pieces that mix easily with our wardrobes yet have a touch of distinction should be welcomed. And I do. So this time, I'll highlight some runway looks to reinforce my point. For the full show, see all looks here.

Clockwise from top left: Looks 29, 9, 6, and 5. Photos courtesy of Vogue. The jumping posts resonate with the variegated stripes on the clothing. The silhouettes are simple, letting the pattern speak. Any of these tops would pair well with nearly any pants in your closet; they are timeless, yet the pattern is fun.

Clockwise from top left: Looks 16, 53, 16 (detail), and 43. Photos courtesy of Vogue. Another simple, streamlined silhouette. Here, a fantastic sweater, especially for scarf collectors, bears a loop in the front to thread a scarf through. The leather pants are simple and flattering (see below). The shoes have a utilitarian, genderless, mod look—that foot could belong to a model in 2020 or Mick Jagger in 1967.

Look 19. Photos courtesy of Vogue. A beautiful belted jacket-and-skirt look in black.

Look 31. Photos courtesy of Vogue. Another stunning belted jacket-and-skirt combination in tan.

Look 28. Photos courtesy of Vogue. Stunning shades of gray that will go with everything you own. Here, detailed photos make the difference—notice how these high-waisted pants sit. Click here for a closeup (then on “details”) to see the back buckle, seaming, and how effortlessly elegant and even sexy they are. The top also has pretty details echoing the pants.

Look 10. Photos courtesy of Vogue. Note the Kelly lock detail at the neck (also seen in Look 5 above). The color blocking paired with white is pretty and wearable—but I was interested in this different angle of the clochette-style bag above. Most theater photos make this bag look flat and impractical; not so here. In fact, I visualize a modern version of the Picotin, with a top that closes, possibly in coveted Barenia leather.

Look 15. Photos courtesy of Vogue. Here, two gorgeous leather coats that wouldn't be layered in real life, but either would be a gorgeous, useful option. The bag above, which I'm advised is called the Sac Della Cavalleria, is getting all the attention. It's useful, yes, but to me, it's just a modern version of the Passe-Guide bag (with the appearance of a double-rounded bottom), or even a 2002 with a different closure.

Hermès AW20 runway collection

Hermès winter 2020 fashion show

Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski Hermès designs

Hermès equestrian style fashion

Hermès leather coats AW20

Is Hermès AW20 collection worth the price?

How does Hermès AW20 sizing fit?

What is the resale value of Hermès AW20 bags?

How to care for Hermès leather garments?

How to style Hermès AW20 pieces?

Is Hermès AW20 true to size?

Are Hermès AW20 bags limited edition?