The Chloé Silverado: An Overlooked Icon of the 2000s It-Bag Era

The Y2K era holds a unique place in fashion history. It was a time of bold excess—sequins, rhinestones, metallics, and exotic skins, all combined in ways that seem absurd today but were perfectly fitting then. For instance, would anyone now dare to carry a Louis Vuitton Motard Firebird like Carrie Bradshaw did in Sex and the City? Probably not.

Yet, the noughties were also a period of optimism, romance, and extravagance that now feels like a distant dream. Back then, one could view the world through rose-tinted glasses, devour celebrity gossip under the covers, and, aside from the occasional reminder that low-rise jeans existed, feel that all was right with the world.

So, despite some questionable choices by luxury houses (yes, Louis Vuitton, we're looking at you), reminiscing about the handbags of that era has become a favorite pastime for bag enthusiasts. To capitalize on this nostalgia, many brands have revived their early 2000s icons. We've seen the return of Carrie Bradshaw's Baguette and Marc Jacobs' Stam, but some styles have been left behind in 2005, along with Paris Hilton's heyday. Chief among these is the Chloé Paddington's less-famous sibling, the Silverado. While Paris Hilton's sidekick made it to 2023, the Silverado hasn't enjoyed the same luck.

Today, we're paying tribute to this underrated gem of the It-bag era: the Chloé Silverado!

The Anatomy of an It-Bag

What exactly makes a bag an "It-bag"? It's a question that has been debated endlessly. An It-bag is often described as "that totemic accessory that announced you were owner of all that was desirable in the world." It encompasses everything we expect from a luxury handbag: exclusivity, high price, and exquisite craftsmanship. As Plum Sykes famously said in Vogue, "An It-bag is an It-bag only if you're unlikely to possess it."

By that standard, many designer bags today fall somewhere on a broad spectrum, from the classic Hermès Birkin to Telfar's street-savvy "Bushwick Birkin." In the early 2000s, with minimal social media influence, fashion and celebrity magazines held the power to crown the next It-bag. They played a pivotal role in the rise of the first true It-bag of the millennium: the Chloé Paddington. With its hefty 6-ounce padlock, endless waitlists, and a frenzy that saw all 8,000 pieces of the Spring 2005 collection sell out before hitting stores, few bags before or after could match its hysteria.

Indeed, its predecessors, like the Prada Nylon Backpack, Louis Vuitton Multicolore, and the Luella Gisele, were retroactively deemed It-bags. But most that followed failed to ignite the same level of excitement. Interestingly, the Silverado, which was supposed to succeed the Paddington, never achieved It-bag status in the first place.

Was the Silverado Ever an It-Bag?

Following its Spring/Summer 2005 debut, the logo-less Paddington, initially intended as an insider favorite, carved out its niche, appearing on front pages and inspiring countless knockoffs. As a result, Chloé devotees began seeking out other, possibly lighter, options from the brand, and that's when they discovered the Silverado. Many fans felt they were in a "Chloé zone," naturally progressing from the Paddington to the Silverado and then to the Edith, which arrived in Spring 2006.

Contrary to popular belief, the Silverado was actually released before its more famous sister, in Autumn/Winter 2004. While it boasted less hardware, it was more embellished, featuring antique gold rivets, whipstitched top handles, side flap pockets, and a tab closure over the zipper. The style came in a variety of colors and materials, from calfskin to exotic skins and metallics, offering a maximalist flair. Its iterations seemed endless, including totes, hobos, messengers, and doctor bags, along with matching belts and footwear.

However, its somewhat busy design raised questions about its longevity from the start. Some appreciated its country-chic, casual aesthetic, while others viewed it as a complement to their Paddingtons rather than a standalone It-bag. By the 2010s, both the Paddington and the Silverado had been discontinued, with the latter becoming a has-been without ever having been "It."

Did Phoebe Philo Get This One Wrong?

Founded by Gaby Aghion in 1952, Chloé has been led by female designers for much of its history (though Karl Lagerfeld served as creative director for a long spell). The brand has seen talents like Stella McCartney, Hannah MacGibbon, Natacha Ramsay-Levi, and Gabriela Hearst. But arguably, none translated Aghion's free-spirited ethos as well as Phoebe Philo, who led the house from 2001 to 2006, having previously served as McCartney's assistant.

Philo had a knack for predicting trends, and it was during her tenure that the Paddington reached its peak. Much of her later inspiration for Old Céline came from her time at Chloé, from flowy, oversized, modern garments to luscious, desirable leather accessories.

The Silverado, in contrast, was conceived by her predecessor, Stella McCartney, as part of a street-inspired "neo-Chloé look." Perhaps that's why the Paddington is still fondly remembered, while the Silverado, though popular in its day, has faded from the public eye.

But should we leave it in the past because it didn't ride the Paddington's wave? Probably not. It's undeniable that McCartney put the previously under-the-radar brand on the map, and it was on her foundations that Philo could build.

Moreover, the Silverado shares several similarities with the Edith, which Gabriela Hearst recently revived. With a slightly updated, less ornate exterior, perhaps the Silverado could usher in a new era. And for those who love a bargain or are digging through vintage finds, the style aligns with today's "beater-chic" trend. In many ways, the Silverado feels very OG Gossip Girl, and if nothing else, that alone might be reason enough to snag one (for a steal, I might add) on the resale market.

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